Used in the classic Caesar salad dressing as well as most other versions, raw or partially cooked egg yolks impart a subtle richness and emulsify the dressing so it clings to the lettuce.
But pity the egg. In the late 1980s it was found that some-though certainly not all-whole eggs possibly could be infected with salmonella bacteria. In rapid-fire order, culinary classics such as Caesar dressing, hollandaise sauce, homemade mayonnaise and chocolate mousse were regarded as if marked with a skull and crossbones.
There is a loophole that intrepid cooks can use to keep Caesar dressing in their repertoire. Writing in ”The Curious Cook,” Harold McGee, an amateur food chemist, notes that egg yolks can be mixed with water and lemon juice then cooked in a microwave oven, which would destroy any bacteria. The water and lemon juice prevent the yolks from curdling in the heat. Thus, Caesar salad dressing, hollandaise sauce and mayonnaise can be made safe.
To cook ”safe” egg yolks, mix 2 large yolks with 1 1/2 teaspoons water and 1 teaspoon of fresh lemon juice. Put the mixture in a small glass custard cup and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Cook on high power (100 percent)
until mixture bubbles, about 45 seconds. Carefully remove the plastic and stir with a clean fork. Replace the plastic wrap and cook until it bubbles again, about 20 seconds, and let it bubble for 5 to 10 more seconds. Stir again with another clean fork. Let cool to room temperature.
The mixture will have a slightly thickened texture, but is fine for a Caesar dressing.
Originally Published:
