Editor’s note: This story ran in November 2015, when California’s Dungeness season was put on hold.
California’s waters are home to some of the best crab in the world — buttery, meaty, succulent and so delicious that crab season is a holiday in itself. Not this year. Due to a neurotoxin that’s infecting Dungeness crabs along the coast, there will be no fresh crab until December — or beyond.
If fresh cracked crab is part of your holiday tradition, it’s time for a tweak. Think crab cakes, crab chowder or crab dip made with the very best canned or frozen crab you can find. Canned crustaceans won’t deliver the same texture or flavor, but a few of them are authentic enough to stand-in — until the real thing comes available.
Local markets generally stock one or two different brands of canned crab that come from Indonesia. Few carry either fresh or frozen. And oddly, each market seems to carry a different brand of canned. Why they don’t carry more is immediately apparent upon opening. Most canned brands are simply terrible.
The best contain chunks of seafood that resemble fresh crab in both texture and flavor, canned with few additives. The worst are fishy purées that reek of salt and chemicals. And the alternatives include fresh-packed, which is expensive, and … frozen, imitation crab flakes.
Here the scoop on the edible, the pathetic and those that resemble really terrible cat food. Prices refer to a 6-ounce can or container (about 4 ounces, drained) unless otherwise noted; nutrition details refer to a 2-ounce serving.
Pontchartrain Blue Crab Crabmeat
This small plastic container is packed tight with fresh, sweet crabmeat from Louisiana. The pieces are small but have the soft texture of fresh cracked crab. There is no added salt or liquid, so it’s recipe-ready. A serving has 320 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $14.99 for 8 ounces in the fresh fish department at Whole Foods. (4 stars)
Miller’s Select Special White Crab Meat
Dungeness fans will appreciate the small, tender chunks of crabmeat that, while a bit salty and fishy, deliver true crab flavor. A serving has 338 mg sodium, 10 g protein. $7.97 at Wal-Mart. (3 stars)
Miller’s Select Claw Crab Meat
The crabmeat is slightly brown in color, but the sweet flavor of Dungeness shines through. A serving has 338 mg sodium, 10 g protein. $6.47 at Wal-Mart. (3 stars)
Crown Prince Fancy White-Lump Crab Meat
This chunky, clean meat has beautiful texture, but only a hint of crab flavor. A serving has 290 mg sodium, 9 grams protein. $8.49 at Sprouts Market. (2 ½ stars)
Kanimi Crab Smart Imitation Crab Flakes
Made with a blend of whitefish, snow crab and lobster from Alaska, these flakes contain just 2 percent crabmeat, but the flavor profile is spot on. It’s tender and tasty enough to serve as a fine substitute in recipes. A serving has 300 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $3.99 in the frozen or refrigerated seafood section at Whole Foods. (2 ½ stars)
Geisha Fancy Crab Meat
Beautiful white and pink clumps of crab meat lack the punch of the real thing, but the flavor is clean. A serving has 230 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $3.99 at Raleys. (2 stars)
Trader Joe’s Crab
Even though this affordable option lacks the punch of fresh crab and is a bit fishy, it has big chunks of tender meat and natural pink coloring. A serving has 300 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $1.99. (1 ½ stars)
Northern Chef Wild Caught Snow Crab with Garlic Butter
The authentic flavor of these crab legs, encased in the half-shell, is a win, but the added salt and garlic butter overpower the meat. A serving has 390 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $10.39 for 8 ounces at Sprouts Market. (1 star, for flavor)
Great American Seafood Imitation Crab Flakes
Unlike the imitation crab found at Whole Foods, these taste like fish candy — overly sweet and fishy. A serving has 400 mg sodium, 6 g protein. 99 cents for 8 ounces in the freezer section at Smart & Final. (½ a star)
Snow Legs Crab Flavored Seafood
These frozen crab-leg-shaped fingers made from fish protein, whitefish and eggs have a hint of crab flavor, but the salt is overpowering. A serving has 400 mg sodium, 11 g protein. $5.99 for 16 ounces at Sprouts Market. (½ a star)
Asuka Crabmeat
It may look like crab and feel like crab, but the tiny bits inside this jar are entirely taste-free. A serving has 230 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $3.49 at Marina Market. (½ a star for being inoffensive)
Chicken of the Sea White Crabmeat
It takes a little imagination, but this pick tastes a bit like crab. Unfortunately, ground-up shells in the mix make for an unpleasant and unexpectedly gritty bite. A serving has 300 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $3.99 at Lucky. (½ a star for flavor)
Bumble Bee’s Fancy White Crabmeat
The person who decided to call this “fancy” needs a reality check. The tiny sinews of ultra-tough meat are far too odorous and chewy to pass for crab. A serving has 260 mg sodium, 9 g protein. $3.59 at Safeway. (No stars)
Polar White Crab Meat
This can of fishy crab puree is unimpressive at best. Don’t make me eat it. Note that the Polar Lump Crab at $5.99 looks better, but the flavor is equally disappointing. A serving has 200 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $2.29 at Smart & Final. (No stars)
Great Value White Crab Meat
The fish aroma from this can of gritty, crabby puree will permeate your entire home. Your cat might like it, though. A serving has 220 mg sodium, 10 g protein. $1.88 at Wal-Mart. (No stars)
Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/taste-off.
