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5 min read · Sep 23, 2020
Halloween pumpkins make the best pies, hands down. I seem to stand alone in this opinion. But how many naysayers have seriously tried to make pies out of a jack-o-lantern pumpkin?
For the past fifty-two years, I baked as many as two hundred pumpkin pies between late September and Halloween, when fresh pumpkins fill the bins in grocery stores. I gave the pies away to everyone while I enjoyed many slices. I tried using varieties of “baking pumpkins.” which usually ended up producing pies that tasted like squash.
The essence of pumpkin, a distinct but mild aroma and taste, drives mankind’s search for pumpkin pie. Halloween pumpkins, variants of the venerable Connecticut field pumpkin, possess the unique pumpkin taste without other conflicting flavors.
Several other pumpkin varieties make great pies. A cow pumpkin, with its creamy texture and clean pumpkin flavor, is excellent for pies if prepared properly. Sugar pumpkins make delicious pies but can require tedious processing of ten pumpkins to equal the quantity of pulp produced by one jack-o-lantern pumpkin.
Most cultivars of pumpkins and squash possess two disruptive qualities: a strong earthy aroma and a squash flavor. They overwhelm the delicate pumpkin essence, resulting in squash-flavored pies.
The wonder of the jack-o-lantern pumpkin pie is its smooth uniform texture, presenting the delightful pumpkin flavor without domination by squash or earthy overtones. Additions such as cream fillings, nuts or chocolate often overwhelm the delicate pumpkin essence. Pure pumpkin flavor is what the masses want!
Halloween pumpkins are inexpensive and ubiquitous during the fall. Some years ago, on the morning after Halloween, I gathered up carved jack-o-lantern pumpkins from the neighbors. After scraping out the candle soot, I covered the jack-o-lantern with tin foil and baked it.
How I Prepare a Pumpkin. Wash it. Make sure that the pumpkin is ripe and undamaged. Place it in a baking pan in the oven. Do not puncture the pumpkin. Bake at 300 degrees for 3 hours.
Another good cooking method involves cutting the raw pumpkin in half, scraping out the seeds and baking the two domes in baking pans. This method is described in The Joy of Cooking. This method confirms that the pumpkin is ripe and is not rotten inside, saving three hours of baking needlessly.
Do not boil pumpkin to prepare a pie. I found it removes much of the pumpkin flavor and aroma. Canned pumpkin contains squash-flavored strains.
Warning: this is a caveman recipe. One pumpkin usually produces around ten pies, although I have produced 23 pies from a very thick pumpkin once. The recipe is therefore based upon the quantity of the pumpkin pulp, not on the number of desired pies.
The bad news is this process requires six hours of baking, but at least twelve pumpkin pies can be produced at one time. The pies freeze well for up to a year or until Thanksgiving dinner.
After baking the pumpkin at 300 degrees for 3 hours, remove the pulp from the skin. Completely puree the pulp in a food processor. Let it drain for at least an hour.
Prepare the spice mix. For the caveman chef, mix 4 parts Cinnamon, 2 parts salt, and 1 part ginger, nutmeg and cloves each. Starting with 4 Tablespoons of cinnamon will produce enough mix for twelve pies.
Measure the cups of pulp while adding it to a very large pot. For example, if the pumpkin produced 8 cups of pulp, add:
- 12 beaten eggs (1.5 x cups of pulp)
- 6 cups sugar (0.75 x)
- 5 Tbsps. Spice Mix (0.625 x)
- 4 cans evaporated milk (0.5 x).
It’s a nerdy recipe, involving a few calculations.
Most commercial pie shells are fine. I prefer Pet -Ritz or Walmart brands. I place up to twelve pies on three racks in the oven. Bake the pies at 300 degrees for exactly 3 hours.
The true magic of the pumpkin pie develops from proper baking. The pies must be baked for 3 hours at 300 degrees, not more or less. In the third hour of baking, the pies will rise as much as one inch above the crust. Do not open the oven in the last hour, which can cause the raised pies to fall.
During this last hour of baking, the filling finally merges the flavors of pumpkin, spices and milk. Most commercial pumpkin pies are not baked long enough to bring out the pumpkin flavor. Prolonged baking creates a deep browning on the surface, often forming delicious caramelization at the edges after cooling, much like a crème brulee crust.
Baking a large batch of pies from a jack-o-lantern pumpkin can bring joy to your neighbors and family. A true pumpkin pie lover cannot purchase a great pumpkin pie, so receiving one in the fall causes excitement among pumpkin pie fans.
For years I have given away pumpkin pies to everyone around me, often with cans of whipped topping. I gave pies to the police, the bank staff, the post office, and to all of my friends. I gave them to strangers, neighbors and children. My friends have learned to expect pies. Some clamor in the late summer; others drop hints. Try it. It’s heartwarming to hear stories of what happened to each pie. You can make a lot of friends with these pies.
The pies freeze well in gallon freezer bags. I found that my pies were delicious after being frozen for one year, after thawing and then briefly warming them in my oven. Many recipients freeze their pies until Thanksgiving dinner.
So what if I want to bake just one pie? I encourage baking a large batch of pumpkin pies, for several reasons. The time and the effort involved to produce one pie is nearly as much work as baking twelve of them. The quantity of ingredients becomes less precise in such small amounts, risking seasoning errors.
If you really must make only one pumpkin pie, prepare pureed and drained pumpkin. The remaining pulp from the pumpkin may be used for various dishes such as pumpkin bread or cookies but should be used within 24 hours since it spoils quickly. Pulp can be frozen. Two baby sweet pumpkins can be baked and used for one pie.
Mix 1 ¼ cup pulp, 2 beaten eggs, 1 cup of sugar, 1 tsp cinnamon, ½ tsp salt, and ¼ tsp each of ginger, nutmeg and cloves, and 7 oz. of evaporated milk. Bake for 3 hours at 300 degrees
The search for a better pumpkin can become a unique culinary adventure. A pumpkin, one solitary berry, produces many pies, so its unique flavors defines its batch of pies. Each batch has different flavors and texture. Like wines.
Try making a delicious batch of pumpkin pies once using a standard Halloween pumpkin. Everyone will love your pies. You can never go back.
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