Grace Gebhardt
Lily Manos, Hailey Dommers
DES 40A
Professor Cogdell
Hoka’s Materials
Throughout the past few years the running shoe brand, Hoka, has become more popular and recommended for its comfortability and support. Like any material made product, it is important where and how the materials are obtained. This is especially relevant to Hoka in order to create a reliable and long lasting product. Materials such as leather, cotton, wool and foam are highly used in Hoka’s products. The raw material choices that Hoka has made heavily impacts the acquisition, manufacturing, distribution, use, recycle, and waste management of their running shoes.
The acquisition in which Hoka obtains their raw materials to design and create their shoe products is fairly sustainable. This stage in the life cycle can have a detrimental effect on the outputs to the environment, there is a lot of room for error. As Hoka is one of the “fastest growing sneaker brands in 2022” (Verry, 2022) it is important that they use clean materials and have little to no negative impact on the surrounding environment. One of the main ingredients in their shoe recipe is leather. (Lopez, 2023) Sourcing this leather, “requires lots of cattle, which needs lots of land… All of our leather is sourced from LWG certified tanneries that operate under environmentally safe and sustainable practices.” (Hoka Sustainability). Although Hoka claims to have excellent sourced leather, the acquisition process contributes heavily to airborne wastes. For example, “Leather production is catastrophic in terms of deforestation and biodiversity loss, as well as greenhouse gas emissions. It is extremely energy and water intensive to produce with lots of chemicals used in the tanning process. A lot of people argue that leather is biodegradable so it’s better for the environment, but that is entirely dependent on the tanning process which makes a lot of leather today unfortunately unable to degrade.” (Leather). Leather is not the culprit when looking for something to blame. It is the process of tanning the leather and getting it to the correct stage where it can be used in Hoka’s products, that is detrimental to the environment. Specifically the greenhouse gas emissions is where this material is at fault. The output of the acquisition process for the materials used in Hokas shoes is inadequate, the manufacturing process and formulation follows this theme.
Other key materials that go into the shoes are cotton and wool. The cotton used in Hoka’s shoes is machine picked from cotton fields which produces fossil fuels and emits carbon into the atmosphere contributing to the airborne wastes. The wool used in their products uses mechanical energy and human power because of the electric shearing of sheep and lamb. This follows a similar pattern of the cotton and how it turns into usable materials for the production and fabrication of the shoes. (Hoka Sustainability).
Hoka shoes are manufactured and processed in “modern, high-tech facilities, equipped with the latest technology and quality assurance processes to ensure that all Hoka shoes are made to the highest possible standards” (Lopez, 2023). Hoka’s global headquarters are located in Goleta, California, right outside of Santa Barbara. The products manufactured in California and Oregon are typically of higher quality compared to those manufactured outside of the US (Lopez, 2023). Little information is available specifically regarding Hoka’s manufacturing process, but overall “The manufacturing process releases large amounts of carbon dioxide. It is responsible for 1.4% of GHG emissions in the world. Your pair of sneakers generates 30 pounds of CO2 emissions, keeping a 100-watt light bulb on for a week.” (Global, 2022). This statistic is about shoe production in general which includes Hokas manufacturing process. Airborne wastes such as greenhouse gas and carbon dioxide are again being mass produced from this stage in the life cycle.
The biggest Hoka distribution center in the United States is located in Southern California and is responsible for that vast majority of products shipped to the US. Deckers Brands, the parent brand of Hoka, owns this facility and claims, “we are committed to ensuring that our Moreno Valley distribution center is a zero-waste facility by 2023” (Hoka Fly). This is a very large and important statement; as claiming that there will be zero waste from a major facility is an amazing goal to have for a large company such as Deckers. This means that there will be no outputs from the main distribution center in the United States. Similar to the distribution center, the use, reuse, and maintenance of Hoka shoe products does not contribute to environmental releases.
The use, reuse and maintenance is a part of the life cycle that plays a large role in sustainability and limiting outputs to the environment. Hoka does a good job at succeeding in this department. For example, “90% of footwear SKUs were comprised of at least one recycled, renewable, regenerated, or natural material in 2021” (Hoka Sustainability). Although this information is outdated for two years now it is still very recent, meaning Hoka is taking steps in the right direction to increase reuse of their materials. Similarly, from a report from the parent brand, Deckers, “100% of all leather hides were sourced from LWG-certified tanneries or recycled sources, within all leather and sheepskin material categories” (Ganapathy). This is another important statistic because leather is one of the most used materials in Hoka’s running shoes. Deckers is making sure that their smaller branches are following their guidelines to sustainability and specifically the use and reuse of product materials. Recycling is a similar part of the life cycle, but has different information to follow.
Recycling has been an upward trend over the last two decades, but is typically forgotten when it comes to big brand names as usually they slide under the radar and can get away without setting a great example. On the contrary, Hoka sets the tone for how a brand should recycle their materials; “By 2027, 25% of all materials used in HOKA footwear will be made from renewable, regenerated or natural materials.” (Hoka Sustainability). This is an example of Hoka's recycling materials to increase sustainability and reduce waste. Shoes in general “contain several different materials, including rubber, fabric, foam and leather. These materials can be salvaged and used to create and resurface playgrounds and courts used for playing sports. Additionally, they can be repurposed into new shoes, insulation and carpet padding just to name a few” (Benefits, 2022). On the contrary, Synthetic materials that are used in Hoka’s products are very difficult to regenerate or biodegrade, making the recycling process much harder and very rare for these types of materials (Global, 2022). This only takes away a small part of Hoka’s success as synthetic materials are not the main source for their products.
Waste management is a large contributor to environmental outputs as there is no real solution to where waste is supposed to go. “Every year in the US, people throw away over 300 million pairs of shoes, 95% of which wind up in landfills.” (Global, 2022). This is part of the problem because no one has come up with a solution to waste and where these shoes should go. The natural materials that make Hoka’s shoes can take up to 25-80 years to biodegrade. Whereas the leather parts of the shoe can take up to 25-40 years to disintegrate. (Global, 2022). The lack of waste management contributes heavily to solid wastes outputs. That said, Hoka is working on reducing waste to 0.045 lbs/pair. Over the last 4 years Hoka has been able to beat this goal and lowered their waste to 0.022 lbs per pair of shoes (Ganapathy). These impressive statistics spark hope to manage and reduce waste of their materials. Overall Hoka has extreme awareness of how detrimental their outputs can be to the environment and are making a large effort to avoid this.
Leather, cotton, wool and foam are heavily used materials in the shoe wear industry. Hoka does an excellent job in the acquisition, manufacturing, distribution, use, recycle, and waste management of these materials. Overall, Hoka’s awareness and set goals or standards to increase the sustainability of their company and their products is very impressive and should be a company that sets an example for others to follow.
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Lopez, Federico. “Where Are Hoka Shoes Made?” Shoe Effect, 9 Mar. 2023, https://shoeeffect.com/where-are-hoka-shoes-made-2/.
Loy, Kelsey A. “Evaluation of Energy Expenditure When Wearing Hoka Running Shoes.” MINDS@UW Home, 1 Dec. 2015, https://minds.wisconsin.edu/handle/1793/73384.
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Verry, Peter. “Salomon and Hoka Were the Fastest Growing Sneaker Brands on Stockx in 2022.” Footwear News, Footwear News, 18 Jan. 2023, https://footwearnews.com/2023/business/retail/saloman-hoka-fastest-growing-sneaker-brands-stockx-2022-1203394448/.
Lily Manos
Professor Christina Cogdell
DES 040A
15 March 2023
A Sustainable Shoe with Quality and Design
Hoka running shoes first originated in France in 2009 when two men Nicilas Memoud and JeanLuc Diard sought to create a running shoe that would help them run downhill faster. This desire led to the Hoka One One running shoe. The term “Hoka One One” is pronounced “how-kah oh-nay oh-nay” which means “fly over the earth”. This saying is true to the company's goals about wanting their shoes to feel like clouds, they aim to have cushioning and stability for all types of runners. This shoe was first popular with professional athletes however, they are now being worn by multiple different kinds of runners such as track and field, road running, trail running, triathlons, and casual runners.(Origins and meaning of the hoka One one shoe brand) Having explored the origins and popularity of the Hoka One One running shoe, it is important to examine the environmental impact of its manufacturing process. Thus, it is necessary to consider the energy usage and emissions associated with the production of these shoes, particularly in light of the growing concern for sustainable and environmentally conscious practices. The majority of the energy involved in the life cycle of Hoka running shoes is from the emissions generated during the manufacturing process.
It is clear that Hoka One One running shoes are very popular, therefore it is crucial to consider the sustainability of the process to obtain the materials for the shoe. Hoka running shoes use recycled polyester (rPET) as its primary material, which is made from plastic water bottles and cans.(Our Materials ) This material is highly sustainable as it requires 59% less energy and natural resources than virgin polyester, which is produced using coal, petroleum, air, and water. The process of making virgin polyester involves a chemical reaction called polymerization at high heat, whereas recycled polyester doesn't need coal or petroleum from the earth. Machines powered by mechanical energy use plastic bottles and cans that are melted, stretched, and twisted into yarn to make the polyester fabric. It takes 11 plastic water bottles to make a pair of shoes using recycled polyester.(Tau) In the United States, producing one tonne of spun fiber of polyester requires about 120,000 MJ.(Figure 1) Hoka One One running shoes' use of recycled polyester is not only a highly sustainable option, but it also requires little energy and natural resources, making it an eco-friendly option for those concerned about the impact of their purchases on the environment.
Hoka One One, a footwear company, has taken strides towards sustainability in their production processes by committing to responsible cotton fibers, showcasing their commitment to reducing the environmental impact of their products. Hoka One One is taking steps towards sustainability in their production processes. By committing to responsible cotton fibers, Hoka One One has shown that they are taking into account the environmental impact of their product and are actively working to reduce it. In total, 117,355 lbs of responsible cotton fibers were used, resulting in the savings of 196,637 lbs of CO2 eq. Emission, 1.1 billion liters of water, and 745,019 MJ of energy compared to conventional cotton raw fiber usage.(Our Materials) Additionally, 78,105 lbs of responsible cotton fibers were used, resulting in the savings of 130,870 lbs of CO2 eq. Emission, 739.8 million liters of water, and 495,841 MJ of energy.(Our Materials) It is important to note that the production of cotton requires significant amounts of energy, with cotton needing 55 MJ per KG of fiber.(What is the energy profile of the textile industry?) The thermal and electrical energy required to create energy directly needed to power the mills, produce heat and steam, and power air conditioners, as well as indirectly create chemicals used in production, translates into huge quantities of fossil fuels.(What is the energy profile of the textile industry?) However, Hoka One One's use of responsible cotton fibers shows their commitment to reducing the environmental impact of their production process. The significant savings in CO2 eq. Emission, water, and energy usage when compared to conventional cotton raw fiber usage are noteworthy and demonstrate the potential for positive change in the textile industry. It is encouraging to see companies leading the way towards a more sustainable future. Overall, Hoka One One's commitment to responsible cotton fibers is a positive step towards reducing the environmental impact of their production processes and setting an example for the textile industry. It is inspiring to see companies take responsibility for their actions and actively work towards a more sustainable future.
Hoka has made remarkable strides in sustainability by sourcing all of their leather and suede from the Leather Working Group (LWG), resulting in significant reductions in CO2 emissions, water usage, and energy consumption. The process of producing leather requires vast amounts of energy and the use of hazardous chemicals, and its production has a severe negative impact on the environment, animals, and workers. By sourcing all of their 1.27 million square feet of leather and suede from LWG they have saved over 2.5 million pounds of CO2 eq. Emissions, 898.2 million liters of water, and 15.5 million MJ of energy compared to the impact of conventionally tanned leather and suede usage.(Our Materials ) Sourcing all of their leather and suede from the Leather Working Group not only shows their commitment to reducing their environmental impact but also sets an example for others in the industry. The process of turning skin into leather requires a vast amount of energy and the use of dangerous chemicals such as mineral salts, formaldehyde, coal-tar derivatives, various oils, dyes, and finishes. (Environmental hazards of leather) Furthermore, the production of leather has a significant negative environmental impact, as it requires massive amounts of fossil fuels consumed in livestock production. Notably, cow-derived leather has nearly three times the negative environmental impact as synthetic counterparts such as polyurethane (PU) leather.(Environmental hazards of leather) Therefore, by sourcing LWG leather, Hoka One One has taken a significant step towards reducing the negative impact of their products on the environment, the animals, and the workers who manufacture it. Hoka One One's decision to source all of their leather and suede from the Leather Working Group (LWG) is a positive step towards sustainability and reducing their impact on the environment.
The manufacturing process of Hoka shoes has an impact on the environment, the production of running shoes, in general, is known to be energy-intensive, and the energy mix used to power the manufacturing process can vary depending on the location of the facilities. It is important to note that Hoka running shoes are primarily manufactured in China and Vietnam, where the energy mix used to power the manufacturing process can vary. In China, coal is the dominant source of electricity, while in Vietnam, hydroelectricity is more prevalent.(Stromsodd) This means that the energy required to manufacture Hoka running shoes may have a higher carbon footprint if they are produced in China compared to Vietnam. As a California-based company, Hoka is aware of the environmental impact of its manufacturing process and is working towards more sustainable production methods.(Stromsodd) The company has already made efforts to reduce waste by using recycled materials in some of its products and has implemented water reduction and energy-efficient initiatives in its facilities. While the production of Hoka running shoes does have an impact on the environment, the company is taking steps towards reducing its carbon footprint and promoting sustainability in its manufacturing process.
The manufacturing process for Hoka running shoes involves various stages, each of which requires energy. Some of the primary types of energy used during the manufacturing process are electricity, heat, and steam. These types of energy are typically generated using different sources, including fossil fuels and renewable energy sources.(Chu) For example, during the cutting and sewing stage, specialized sewing machines and cutting tools are used to create the upper part of the shoe. These machines typically run on electricity, which is often generated using fossil fuels such as coal or natural gas.(Chu) However, Hoka has taken steps to minimize the amount of energy used during this stage by investing in more energy-efficient equipment and processes.(Our Environment) Another energy-intensive stage of the manufacturing process is the creation of the midsole. This involves injecting foam into a mold to create the desired shape of the shoe. The foam is typically made from synthetic materials and can be energy-intensive to produce.(Chu) However, Hoka has started using more sustainable materials, such as recycled foam, to reduce the environmental impact of this stage.(Our Environment) Finally, during the assembly stage, the various components of the shoe are put together using adhesives and other bonding methods. This stage requires heat and steam, which are generated using different sources of energy.(Chu) Again, Hoka has taken steps to reduce the amount of energy used during this stage by implementing more efficient production methods.(Our Environment) Overall, while the manufacturing process for Hoka running shoes requires a significant amount of energy, the company is taking steps to minimize its environmental impact. By investing in more sustainable materials and equipment, and exploring renewable energy sources, Hoka is working towards a more sustainable manufacturing process that reduces the carbon footprint of its products.
Hoka running shoes are designed to be durable and long-lasting, which means that they do not require frequent replacement or disposal. Additionally, since the majority of Hoka running shoes are manufactured in Asia, they do not require extensive transportation for distribution to customers in North America and Europe, which can further reduce their carbon footprint. Furthermore, Hoka shoes are designed with sustainability in mind and are made using recycled materials in some of their products. Hoka also offers a take-back program for used shoes, allowing customers to send their old shoes back to the company to be recycled or repurposed. This approach to reuse and recycling helps to minimize waste and conserve resources. Therefore, the majority of the embodied energy of the Hoka running shoes lifecycle is when materials are being extracted and the manufacturing stage. By reducing the need for transportation and minimizing waste, Hoka is taking significant steps toward minimizing its carbon footprint and promoting sustainable practices.
In conclusion, the Hoka One One running shoe brand has established its commitment to sustainability by adopting eco-friendly materials, responsible cotton fibers, and by sourcing all of their leather and suede from the Leather Working Group. The company's use of recycled polyester as its primary material, which requires less energy and natural resources, has not only made the brand more sustainable but also set an example for others in the industry. Hoka One One's efforts to reduce their environmental impact have resulted in significant savings of CO2 eq. Emissions, water, and energy consumption, setting an example for other companies to follow. The brand has taken strides towards a more sustainable future, demonstrating that a commitment to sustainability can be achieved without sacrificing product quality or design.
Bibliography
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Burtka, Allison Torres. “These Running Shoes Are Made from Captured Carbon Emissions.” Well+Good, 11 Nov. 2022, https://www.wellandgood.com/running-shoes-made-from-carbon-emissions/.
Cheah, Lynette, et al. “Manufacturing‐Focused Emissions Reductions in Footwear Production.” SSRN, 5 Apr. 2012, https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/papers.cfm?abstract_id=2034336.
Chu, Jennifer. “Footwear's (Carbon) Footprint.” MIT News | Massachusetts Institute of Technology, MIT News , 22 May 2023, https://news.mit.edu/2013/footwear-carbon-footprint-0522.
Elven, Marjorie van. “How Sustainable Is Recycled Polyester?” FashionUnited, FashionUnited, 9 Mar. 2021, https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/how-sustainable-is-recycled-polyester/2018111540000.
“Environmental Hazards of Leather.” PETA, 17 Oct. 2022, https://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/leather-industry/leather-environmental-hazards/#:~:text=Although%20some%20leather%20makers%20deceptively,some%20of%20them%20cyanide%2Dbased.
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Hailey Dommers
Grace Gebhardt, Lily Manos
DES 40A
Professor Cogdell
Life Cycle Paper: Waste and Pollution
HOKA is an athletic brand that creates many different styles of shoes and apparel fit for any activity. Born in France and roughly a decade old, HOKA has made its mark in the athleticwear industry due to the brand’s emphasis on comfort, sustainability, and opportunity. HOKA is part of a bigger brand, Deckers Outdoor Corporation, that designs and distributes all of HOKA’s merchandise, amongst other popular brands. To practice responsible and sustainable production, Deckers Brand has available their 2022 Creating Change Report which analyzes their goals and progress in achieving socially and environmentally sustainable operations. Although most of the products that go into creating a HOKA running shoe are recyclable, much of it still emits waste and byproducts that can be harmful to the environment. The brand is aimed to be environmentally friendly and sustainable so while assessing the life cycle process of the shoe, different parts of the manufacturing and distribution process will be looked at to determine how much waste is created. The primary materials used to make Hoka running shoes (cotton, wool, leather, and timber) are mostly recyclable and sustainable, but few components create waste and will still end up in landfills.
HOKA running shoe waste emissions begin during the raw materials acquisition and product manufacturing. While acquiring raw materials such as cotton, wool, and leather used to make HOKA running shoes, waste is exerted mainly in the form of greenhouse gasses. Looking at the Deckers Brand Creating Change Report, HOKA’s goal as of 2022 is to use 100% of cotton fiber for footwear from “recycled cotton fibers or sourced from farms that utilize sustainable crop growing practices”. Starting with this goal in 2019, HOKA reported using 0% of cotton fiber that was recyclable and sustainable in their footwear. The same numbers can be seen in 2020, but in 2021 HOKA increased their use of sustainable cotton fiber to 23.5%. Most recently reported in 2022, 28.31% of the cotton fiber used in HOKA footwear, was made from recycled cotton fibers or sourced from farms that utilize sustainable crop growing practices. HOKA is on the right track to sourcing better cotton fibers but still obtains non-sustainable cotton fibers whose average cotton production emits around 220 million metric tons yearly of carbon emissions. HOKA’s wool manufacturing goal is to “eliminate virgin wool in our footwear, and to the extent that is not achievable, ensure that any virgin wool used Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified”, according to the Creating Change Report. The goal was put into action in 2021 where .01% of total fiber usage was virgin wool or untraced. In 2022, HOKA reported that no wool was used in their footwear. The last main raw material that is used to make a running shoe is leather. Decker’s goal on their Creating Change Report reads that “100% of all leather hides (i.e leather, suede, and sheepskin) used in footwear will either come from recycled sources or be finished in a Leather Working Group (LWG)-certified tannery” and this goal was achieved in 2022. These main raw materials do end up creating waste in the acquisition process where most of the waste is emitted into the environment as greenhouse gasses. HOKA and Deckers are both taking steps and setting goals toward finding more sustainable means of acquiring their materials. The product manufacturing process is where more waste byproducts are prevalent, specifically with the use of water and factory machines. “HOKA footwear utilizes 98.13% preferred paper packaging materials and strives to remove virgin non-certified paper, and incorporate more certified and recycled paper into its packaging, such as FSC and FSC mixed paper substrates. HOKA's recycled paper efforts have saved over 802,000 trees since 2016”. Again, looking at the Creating Change Report, Hoka reduced its water usage by 9.21% per pair of shoes in 2022 compared to the baseline year (2019). During the manufacturing process, it was recorded that one pair of HOKA shoes admitted 14.7023 kg CO2 in 2021 intending to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 20% by the year 2023. Overall, the manufacturing process of the HOKA running shoe does create some waste, but Deckers and HOKA are working towards eliminating as much of the byproducts as possible and ensuring that they can be recycled or disposed of in a sustainable manner.
A majority of the waste emitted by HOKA shoes comes from the transportation and distribution process. Manufactured in Vietnam, Cambodia, and China, HOKA shoes travel a long way to be sold in the US which can create a lot of waste over the long journey. The manufacturer alone measures 184.05 g/pair of waste recorded from 15 factories in Asia. Their main distributor in the US is the Moreno Valley Distribution Center where it was recorded that 95% of waste was recycled. I was unable to find specific information on how much waste is produced from HOKA shoes being shipped from Asia to the United States, but aviation is “responsible for 5.9% of human-caused global heating” (Flight Free). In regards to packing materials, HOKA uses recyclable and sustainable materials that create little waste. “HOKA footwear utilizes 98.13% preferred paper packaging materials and strives to remove virgin non-certified paper, and incorporate more certified and recycled paper into its packaging, such as FSC and FSC mixed paper substrates. HOKA's recycled paper efforts have saved over 802,000 trees since 2016” (HOKA Sustainability). In 2022, 78.34% of HOKA footwear packaging was able to be recycled via the EPA Recycling Standards. HOKA does a good job of ensuring that their packaging materials can be recycled and they will hopefully be using 100% recyclable materials within the next couple of years. After looking at this data, it can be seen that the transportation and distribution portion of the HOKA shoe life cycle creates a majority of the waste due to the carbon emissions created from shipment and the actual waste created in the factories.
The final steps of the HOKA shoe lifecycle are the reuse, the recycling, and the disposal process. If the shoe isn’t being donated or regifted, then it is most likely being recycled or ending up in landfills. HOKA works with the Australian Sporting Goods Association which is an organization that works to repurpose athletic footwear. They use old and used products that would likely end up as waste to turn them into new products, such as gym mats, floors, and playgrounds (Australian Sporting Goods Association). If the HOKA shoe isn’t being repurposed into new items, the materials are being sorted as recyclable or as landfill. In 2022, 13.71% of Deckers footwear materials were diverted as unsustainable waste (landfill and incineration without energy recovery), and the rest was recyclable (closed loop, incineration with energy recovery, post-industrial). If materials are deemed unsustainable, they will negatively impact the environment. Landfills carry toxic chemicals that often end up in the surrounding water supply and waste that is incinerated without energy recovery is combusted and ends up in the environment. The sustainable materials are repurposed, the energy is harnessed for reuse, and if possible, the old materials will be used again as the same thing. HOKA is on the right track to becoming a sustainable brand by practicing recyclable waste management strategies.
After assessing the waste created throughout the lifecycle of the HOKA running shoe, it can be seen that HOKA is working towards sustainability by changing its waste management strategies. The brand’s focus is using clean and sustainable materials but there is inevitable waste and byproducts as a result of the whole shoe lifecycle. From using leather that is LWG approved to collaborating with organizations to repurpose unused shoe materials, HOKA continues to take steps closer to achieving sustainability in all aspects of the manufacturing process. HOKA’s parent company, Deckers Brand, has published it's 2022 Creating Change Report which explicitly states the changes that HOKA is making to manage waste. The report also includes detailed statistics of exactly how much waste is being created and from what part of the lifestyle the waste is coming from. Taking all of this information into account, HOKA running shoes create mostly sustainable waste and have goals to become a fully sustainable company.
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